Shores of Serendipity: Resilience and Revelry Along The Coasts Of Kollam

The sun lingered in the horizon like a blazing omen of good times, the town was cloaked in the dazzle of soft sunlight breaking in through the cracks in the sky. Something about the day was admittedly special. Kollam has gracefully endured the passage of time. Its beaches remain stunningly pristine, and the townsfolk are genuine and kind-hearted.

It is 6:10 am, Baby wakes up to the distant church bells and muffled chanting of verses from the Bible. The occasional shouting of his father to accompany him on the fishing trip so early in the morning irritated him. 

“Baby, we better get going, the number of catches are dwindling. Simon and his sons would get whatever little is left in the sea”. Baby could by heart spurt out whatever his father says in the morning as it has more or less become an intimate part of his morning routine. 

As Baby steps out, he can already see the neighbourhood boys in the expansive Maidan adjacent to the beach, playing their usual little games. Most of them are sporting football player jerseys, and their faces seem to be lit by a thousand stars- so radiant and enthusiastic. Baby sees his younger self in them. And an overwhelming nostalgic sense of a carefree past, unburdened by responsibilities, surged into his mind like a sudden tempest. He is rebounded to his senses once again by the incessant shouting of his father, who for the last 29 years depended on the sea for his survival. 

Although clouded by the burdensome-ness of his life, Baby’s face showed a slight hint of elation now as he sets out with his father-Jomon to the shores of Tangasseri. The rosy pink skies of the morning brought to his mind the cotton candy vendors of beachside evenings. It also triggered an innocent craving to deeply reminisce about the beautiful vestiges of his childhood. 

6:30 AM 

The ebullient townsfolk were up and about. Baby was lost in a frenzy of thoughts. The aroma of fresh pickles—ranging from prawns to mutton—drifted leisurely in the ocean breeze, invigorating his spirit anew. It also sparked a question within him: "What is unfolding today? Why does the air buzz with excitement?". He stared vacantly into the nothingness of the deep blue ocean in utter confusion. “Baby mone, come help us put up the Pandhal. We have grown old, and are not as efficient as we used to be”. A voice echoed from quite a distance. Baby’s confusion is now topped with curiosity as he races his eyes through the alluring seascape to spot the faceless voice. 

Meanwhile, Jomon has grown annoyed of his son, whom he thinks is a delusional boy living in a make-shift world of his own. Jomon is now tirelessly hauling his beloved boat, Mata Mary, the vessel that embodies everything he holds dear. After the devastating 2004 Tsunami swept away his old boat, the government extended a loan to help him acquire this new one, rekindling his dreams and livelihood.

Life for these Kollam residents is far from enjoyable in fact. They live in the relentless fear of a roaring tsunami. The year 2004 was especially devastating; they lost everything they owned—their beautiful homes, their fishing boats, their livelihoods. When the tides finally receded, Jomon and his wife stood amidst the wreckage of what was once a thriving town, utterly lost and heartbroken. Images of little Jesus Christ and fragments of people’s clothes drifted aimlessly through the waves, painting a haunting picture of their shattered world. Jomon has worked a double engine ever since, to rebuild the lost glory of his life.

Whatever was unfolding in their town today was highly unlikely of that place. People seemed extra ebullient, and there was a sense of excitement infused in the air. As Baby walked to the fringes of Vaadi harbour he noticed a humongous tent in the making. He could not believe his eyes. 

By that time, his father had lost all hope in dragging Baby along with him on the catch trip and therefore, annoyedly leaves alone in the hope of returning early. 

7:30 AM

Baby couldn’t quite believe that a fest was about to enliven their locality. One of his cousins, Charles, informed him that Kudumbashree stalls would be set up to sell an array of fried meat delicacies and an endless variety of pickles. That explained the tantalising aroma of his favourite mutton pickle that filled the air as they set out that morning. His usual lethargy vanished, replaced by a newfound energy as he eagerly prepared to set up a promising tent. This was a significant change for the coastal folk. Determined to make the fest a grand success, he rallied his otherwise lazy friends to join him in the effort. While waiting for them to arrive, Baby took it upon himself to plaster posters across the town, ensuring that everyone in Kollam would know about this extraordinary event. 

The morning glory of the town was just sinking in, the lighthouse looked especially majestic, as if in an effort to invite the attention of more people. The pandhal was being set up against an absolutely fantastic background of the ocean and swaying coconut trees. A burst of aroma seemed to pierce into peoples’ noses as if in an effort to infuse life into them. The aura of the day was unparalleled! 

Baby is now perched on the top of sea rocks waiting impatiently for his friends to arrive, yet at the same time he calmly tries to let the wonderful moments sink in. His flow of thought was broken by the alarming sound of a speaker calling for young artists to repaint the walls of the coast. One appalling fact about Kollam’s coasts’ is the interestingly high number of largely unemployed artists who have taken up the task of ardently painting the town walls adding to the lustre of the already ravishing township. 

 By 9:30 AM, the pandals stood tall, ready to welcome the parade of women carrying mud tins, pans, and pots brimming with pickles, fish delicacies, and other local cuisines. A lorry pulled up, swiftly unloading an array of earthen kitchenware and home decor items, much to the amazement of the onlookers. The locals wholeheartedly believe that food tastes better when prepared and stored in mud pots and containers. While the sustainability debate rages elsewhere, the Kollam folk have been significantly contributing to this cause in whatever capacity for decades.True green champions, indeed!  

Soon, Baby’s mother called him over to greet one of her friends who now lived in Dubai. The lady, who had grown up in Kollam, is marvelled at how much the town had transformed into a budding suburb. "Fifteen years ago, you could only find authentic Kerala hotels scattered around our quaint little Kollam. On our way to the fair, we were astounded to see Chinese restaurants and even a McDonald's! Oh, how our Kollam is evolving," she exclaimed. On hearing this, Baby's mother frowned slightly, as she was staunchly opposed to such rapid urbanisation and expansion, fearing it might strip their beloved coastal town of its tranquillity. In no time, they went back to sharing memories from their school days and especially that one Anglo Indian teacher whom they both admired deeply. 

Baby left the two ladies to their little fancies, and slipped into an uninhabited kingdom in his own mind. He could not stop thinking about how much his Kollam would change in another fifteen years, he was not even sure if he would be able to identify with a completely commercialised Kollam. If truth be told, the mere thought of it scared him. Baby couldn't fathom waking up to crowded beaches teeming with 'modern' tourists and automated fishing boats gliding across the sea. Moreover, Baby always thought Mcdonalds was bland and overpriced, he would anyway devour his mother’s coconut prawn curry and Puttu- his most favourite. Though deeply saddened, he was compelled to set aside these bizarre yet understandable thoughts to enjoy the fair with his friends and neighbours.

The boys, who had been engrossed in their football game, returned and were awestruck by the makeshift amusement rides. They dashed to their parents, pleading for a few hundred rupees to join in the fun. One boy pointed to the haunted house and boasted he was brave enough to live there, prompting the others to burst into laughter. The food stalls only caught the attention of a few; ever since Chinese restaurants had sprung up, they preferred chilli chicken over their traditional cuisine. 

As the sun shone brighter, the people's enthusiasm only intensified. The older men gathered near the shore, engrossed in card games while singing old Malayalam songs from the 80s and 90s, occasionally popping peanuts into their mouths. Their lively music soon gave way to spirited political debates. It was clear they had lost interest in the fair altogether!

Hours of joy passed, and by 3 PM, numerous fishing boats reached the shores, setting up fresh fish auction stalls. They had caught sharks, prawns, pearl spot fish, and seers. People from all over the town flocked to get their hands on these fresh catches. Momentarily, the crowd's focus shifted from the fair to the bustling auction stalls nearby. Baby and his friends, being car enthusiasts, were captivated by the glamour of a Mercedes that pulled up for the auction. The lively bidding continued for a few hours. 

As evening approached, a strange tiredness settled over the crowd, and many sprawled out on the open shores, savouring the evening breeze. The sun loomed large, seagulls soared above, church bells rang, and tea and snack stalls buzzed with activity. Baby was entranced by the simplicity of it all. He was jolted back to reality by the dazzling hues on the horizon—the sunset's breathtaking colours. Though he witnessed it daily, this sunset felt different, marking the end of a wondrous day in their lives. Gratitude filled him, mingled with sadness that the day was drawing to a close. Yet, a serene calmness washed over him as he watched everyone retreat to their homes and the fair gradually quieted down. He whispered a prayer and gazed into the horizon until night fell…

Nakshatra HM,
Kollam

This piece is part of Nagrika’s Annual Youth Writing Contest. Through the writing contest we encourage youth to think creatively and innovatively about their cities.