Poush Mela of Santiniketan:
Knitting the Threads of Bengali Culture 

Professor: Hey, are you Bengali? 
Me: Yes. 
Professor: So you must be from Kolkata, right? 

If you're Bengali, you've probably already experienced this situation, while those who are not from Bengal may have assumed at some point in life that Bengal is solely associated with Kolkata. Little do people realize that nestled within West Bengal lies a different world, rich with unique experiences and hidden gems. Today, we'll explore one of these hidden gems: The Land of Tagore. 

“Santiniketan is a place where the past and present merge, and the old and new coexist in harmony.” – Amartya Sen, Nobel Laureate in Economic Sciences 

Santiniketan, a UNESCO world heritage site, is located 152 km north of Kolkata, and takes around 3 hrs to reach via direct trains from Howrah.

A Quick Glance at Santiniketan

Situated in the district of Lal Matir Desh (Land of Red Soil): Birbhum; Santiniketan is full of historic buildings, landscapes, and artworks. Whenever you will walk on the streets of Santiniketan you will feel connected with Bengali culture. Most women are dressed in sarees, and men in kurtas, with more bicycles on the roads than cars or bikes. You will see very few high-rise buildings and mostly beautifully decorated houses with gardens.

The first non-European Nobel laureate, Rabindranath Tagore, established Visva Bharati in Santiniketan in 1921. It is a central university known for fostering creativity, cultural understanding, and critical thinking among its students. Classes are frequently held under the shade of trees, and students address their teachers as ‘Didi’ or ‘Dada’, reflecting its unique cultural and educational ethos. There are five houses of Rabindranath Tagore in Santiniketan: Punascha, Shamali, Konarka, Udichi, and Udayana. He spent a significant portion of his life in Udayana, weaving magic with his writing. 

Throughout the year, there are several fairs organized in the city such as Khadi Mela, Phool Mela, and Hostoshilpo Mela to promote the culture and local craftsmanship. But the one fair that is not just a fair but rather a festival, without which Santiniketan is indeed incomplete in its true essence, is Poush Mela.

Poush Mela of Santiniketan: A Legacy

Every year on the seventh day of the Bengali month of Poush, West Bengal’s biggest fair, Poush Mela, is organized. This fair was first started by Maharshi Debendranath Tagore, father of Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore, in 1894 to boost the local economy through an enchanting celebration of dance, music, and art. It is located in the Purbapalli region of Santiniketan and held in the ground popularly known as Melar Math (Fairground). Preparations begin 2-3 months in advance, with the entire ground being cleaned and everything set up for this 3-day event, which takes place from December 24th to 26th. The whole city lights up during these three days. 

For as long as I can remember, our house has always been filled with guests during this time. This is a common sight in every household in Santiniketan, as hotels are typically fully booked in advance during this season. 

You might be wondering what makes Poush Mela so unique.

Over 10,000 people across the country and continents come together to experience this fair. With more than 1,500 stalls featuring local craftsmen from every state and renowned brands, it is the largest fair in Bengal, boasting a distinct exclusivity that sets it apart. 

What Happens During these Three Days of Poush Mela?

On the first day of Poush Mela, the Vaitalik group, a local ensemble known for their traditional performances and cultural presentations, sings songs and performs a procession around the ashram in the morning. Afterward, a prayer is held at Chhatimtala, followed by singing and participation in Uttarayan, marking the end of the inauguration and the beginning of Poush Mela. 

On the second day, 25th December, the Upasana Ghar, which is a Glass House, opens its doors in the evening. It remains closed for the entire year and opens only on special occasions. It is filled with candles, and prayers are held inside. Later that evening, a fireworks festival happens that transforms the sky into a surreal spectacle. I always watch it from my terrace. On that day, all the nearby houses' terraces are filled as everyone brings out chairs to sit and witness the sky ablaze with light.

On the last day, closing ceremony performances light up the stage, and throughout the night, people immerse themselves in shopping, hopping from one fair stall to another, and enjoying the festive atmosphere. 

The fourth day marks the end of Poush Mela. Earlier, vendors used to stay till month-end, but due to stricter regulations by Visva Bharati, cleaning of the entire grounds now begins on the fourth day itself. On the morning of 27th December, the entire city wakes up with a mix of sadness and a glimmer of hope, knowing that the next Poush Mela is just 365 days away. 

Fair Finds: A Shopper's Paradise

The bustling stalls at Poush Mela are a sensory delight, offering a treasure trove of local handicrafts, textiles, electronics, stationary, and artworks. There is a great collection of shoes, winter wear, kitchen finds, and home decor, at affordable rates. Famous saree boutiques also set up their stalls bringing the finest authentic sarees from different regions. 

The entrance of Poush Mela is marked by a five-minute walk, with both sides of the road lined with open street shops selling balloons, Bengali street foods such as Ghoti Gorom, Paanch Meshali, Fuchka, etc., as well as toys, hair accessories, and much more. There are a lot of Harek Maal shops where there is a fixed price of Rs 10/ Rs 20/ Rs 30; you can pick any item from the shop, and you will get it at that price.

There is a separate section for Kaather Mela showcasing handmade items made of wood, ranging from small decorations to large furniture for your house.

Flavors from Bengal: Culinary Delights 

Poush Mela serves a gastronomic delight where you get hundreds of stalls for Bengali food. Watch as Jalebi and Malpowa are freshly made and served hot before your eyes. A personal favorite of mine is Mathura cake, a donut-shaped dessert coated in powdered sugar that bursts with the perfect amount of sweetness with every bite. Mathura cake stalls are scattered throughout Poush Mela, ensuring you won't miss out on this treat. For the ice cream lovers, there is roller coaster ice cream, amul ice creams, and other top brands as well. 

As Bengalis are known for their love of tea, you can find multiple stalls and hawkers offering a variety of teas and coffees, with Tandoori tea being a highly recommended specialty. 

The best restaurants in the city and renowned fish stalls of Kolkata set up their stalls at Poush Mela. From fish finger and fish kabiraji to fish fry, Pizzas, and Bengali Thalis, you name it, and they have it all. In the month of Poush, a Bengali tradition involves enjoying

Pithe Puli, a type of dessert. In Poush Mela, you will get access to Pithe of different types: 

• Bhapa Pithe - Steamed rice cake filled with coconut and jaggery, served hot 

• Patishapta - Crepes filled with Kheer or coconut-jaggery made from refined flour, rice flour, and semolina 

• Dudh Puli - Rice flour dumplings slow-cooked in milk 

• Gokul Pithe - Fried sweet dumplings stuffed with coconut and soaked in hot sugar syrup 

• Tel Pithe - The batter, made from rice flour, is deep-fried to achieve a crispy exterior and a sweet, soft center 

In addition to these, the fair also offers a variety of other Pithe-Puli options.

Cultural Kaleidoscope: Vibrant Performances 

A large stage is set up for daily performances at Poush Mela. Baul sangeet, Rabindra sangeet, Kirtan, and Bengali folk songs are among the exclusive music genres featured. Various local dance groups gather to showcase Santhal dance (a unique tribal dance form), Rabindra Nritya, Bharatnatyam, and many more. Children from different dance schools across the city also present their performances. 

The Kirtan and Baul sangeet performances continue throughout the night, immersing visitors in the essence of Bengali culture. Often, people from nearby cities and villages spend the entire night at the fairgrounds, enjoying the performances. The next morning, they catch trains back to their homes.

Adrenaline Rush: Amusement Rides and Shows 

At Poush Mela, there's no shortage of excitement and entertainment. People indulge in fun by participating in shooting games, lotteries, and amusement rides. It brings the largest rides in multiple numbers. There are giant Ferris Wheels that make you feel on top of the world, Dragon Trains, exhilarating giant Swings, dizzying Break Dance rides, Mickey Mouse bouncy castles for kids, Octopus rides with 360-degree rotation, and many more attractions. Some rides are exclusively for kids, while others are for both adults and children. 

Various shows are held, including a biking show where bikers perform different tricks on a circular track, a magic show, and a mermaid show for the kids.

A Retouch in Poush Mela 

Poush Mela holds a timeless legacy, though I might envision a few subtle refinements if given the chance to design it anew. 

➔ Addition of Fun Elements for Everyone 

I would create a game zone for senior citizens where they could come together and enjoy different board games, puzzles, dice games, and more. Currently, the fun elements focus on kids and youth, but there should be a space where senior citizens can also indulge in fun. Despite the crowds, I've seen people in wheelchairs and older individuals attending the fair, demonstrating that Poush Mela's appeal is irresistible to everyone. For those who are afraid of rides or unable to access them, there would be quiz competitions, debate competitions, and recitation contests to participate in. 

➔ Accessible, Inclusive, and Safe for All 

Poush Mela is open to everyone with no entry fee. Regarding safety, there are multiple lost and found departments and police officers stationed around the entire border of the ground. No vehicles are allowed inside the fair. 

I would station police officers at each intersection inside the fair to eliminate pickpocketing. Given the large fairground, people often get tired while roaming, so there will be multiple rest centers where mineral water bottles will be provided free of cost. Each rest center will have public toilets that are properly covered for women's comfort and stocked with sanitary napkins. Each rest center will be managed by two individuals responsible for toilet cleanliness and one person overseeing the overall rest center. 

A pet creche will be available where people can leave their pets and enjoy the fair freely. Often, pet parents miss out on the fair because they can't leave their pets alone at home. The pet creche would be located near the entrance gate for convenience and safety. 

In the food section, the Bengali food items will remain predominant, but a new section named ‘Delicacies from Across India’ will feature regional dishes from other states. It will ensure that not only non-Bengali people can get a taste of Bengali food but Bengalis also get a taste of other state cuisines. 

➔ Attractions for Gen Z 

To attract the Gen Z audience, there will be two AR/VR zones and video game areas. Given the pervasive influence of social media, we would install multiple Polaroid photo booths where people can click pictures and bring home a tangible memory of this fair. There will be Pinterest-inspired backdrops scattered across the ground, where people can take aesthetic photos to post on social media. This will increase the online reach of Poush Mela and will attract more tourists. 

However, with the growing influence of technology and social media, kids are losing touch with physical games. To address this, there will be more physical game zones to encourage kids to play and interact with each other. Additionally, some rides will offer free entry so that underprivileged kids can also enjoy themselves. For many of these children, it's a rare opportunity to escape their daily struggles and just be kids. Poush Mela will provide them with memories that will last a lifetime. 

➔ Eco-Friendly Practices 

The fireworks festival is a treat to the eyes, but on the other hand, the smoke generated by these crackers is harmful to the environment. Moving forward, we will use smokeless crackers that have no harmful impact on the environment. 

Additional dustbins will be installed inside Poush Mela, accompanied by posters promoting awareness about dumping waste only in designated bins. This initiative aims to maintain cleanliness. Police officers stationed at intersections can intervene if they observe anyone disregarding the posters by littering. We will also emphasize reducing plastic usage by opting for paper bags and other eco-friendly alternatives. Some free samples of paper bags, or other sustainable products will be distributed in public. Additionally, stalls will provide discounts and incentives for visitors who bring their own bags. 

More trees will be planted around the fairground so that however crowded the place is, we will still have an unlimited supply of Oxygen. Visva Bharati, the organizer of Poush Mela, can collaborate with local schools where children will be encouraged to do tree plantation in the Melar Math.

The Essence of Santiniketan Lives On 

When I was a kid, my thamma (grandmother) would hand me a Rs 100 note and say, "Jao Mela dekhe esho," which means "Go and enjoy the fair." Now that I have grown up and started earning, she still puts a Rs 100 note into my hand every year before Poush Mela with that same loving smile. Poush Mela is more than just a festival; it’s a cherished tradition that bridges generations, a heartfelt connection to our roots, and an essential experience for anyone wanting to immerse themselves in Bengali culture and witness its vibrant celebration.

Poush Mela supports thousands of small business owners, promotes local handmade goods, and boosts tourism in Santiniketan. Walking through Poush Mela, you will experience a profound sense of inclusiveness as it breaks down socio-cultural boundaries, uniting people from diverse religions, regions, and backgrounds in a joyous celebration. 

In the future as well, Santiniketan should remain deeply rooted in Bengali culture, preserving its essence despite the pressures of modernization. The melodies of Rabindrasangeet and the soulful strains of Baul sangeet are what we yearn for amidst

the cacophony of city life. These timeless sounds draw us back to Santiniketan again and again, reconnecting us with our heritage and the tranquility of our roots. 

“Santiniketan is not just a place, it is a spirit.” 

– Indira Gandhi, first female prime minister of India.

Author: Bitata Ghosh

This piece is part of Nagrika’s Annual Youth Writing Contest. Through the writing contest we encourage youth to think creatively and innovatively about their cities.